ENGINE REBUILD PAGE

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Engine Status:

The engine in #77 came from the old '77.5 automatic car, which had 158kmi before it was removed from that car (which was scrapped). While it is not in serious need of a rebuild, starting our first season with a fresh motor is certainly a good idea, and made even more sense as the engine had to be swapped anyway - #77 came cheap thanks to a blown motor in it! It had clearly been drag-raced (no proper use for a Porsche!) by the teenager who'd gotten the keys to it, and he'd managed to burn up pistons and valves, blow the head gasket, scorch the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch, and do who knows what else damage to it! The situation was so bad that, because the engine sat for a while in the garage with the head off but not drained, the inside of the block (including the bores) has suffered damage from corrosion due to the large amount of water mixed with the oil in the sump. That engine is now resting in various location, in pieces, and hopefully can be used as a core to build a full-out race motor for a future season (once the chassis and driver are sorted out and tuned).

In contrast, the work with the donor car's engine was extremely limited. We knew it was in good shape before we pulled it, as we'd put many of those miles on it without any problem and knew that it was in great shape. Earlier in the summer we had run a compression and leakdown test on it, and still (at 158kmi) got compression on the high end of the factory spec (~150psi = 10 bar, factory spec was 8-11 bar, with 8.5:1 compression) and leakdown less than 10% (as low as the gauge went). We had also performed a head gasket replacement a year earlier and knew the top end was in good shape at the time.

This was confirmed when we tore apart the engine; after removing the pistons we could still see the cross-hatch pattern from the original hone that was performed in the factory 22 years and 158kmi ago! All bearings were in excellent shape, with hardly any scratching or wear at all.
The engine received new bearings, rings, gaskets and seals, and we balanced the rods and pistons; the block was completely cleaned and repainted. Compression and all other specs are as original, though the compression ratio could still be raised legally (per SCCA IT specs); our focus was making a reliable inexpensive engine that will last long enough for the driver to learn how to race! The only mods (as such) were balancing rods and pistons. The engine was re-installed and run prior to Thanksgiving 1999. Running revealed that the oil pan was leaking pretty badly, requiring the pan be removed and re-sealed. This was done the following spring (2000) prior to Driver's School.

Still to come for this engine are an improved exhaust and header, improved ignition tuning and control, and revised cam timing (though the cam must remain stock in IT).

The Rebuild:

After the engine was treated to a thorough de-greasing at the machine shop, it was de-rusted not very thoroughly by a wire wheel - no real need to spend a lot of time getting every last bit of rust off, since it'll probably only last a season or two till it's replaced by a full race built motor. Then it got a nice bath of hot soapy water to clean off the rest of the junk. I gave it a good heavy coating of some nice aluminum colored paint - brighter so I can see things like dropped nutz and leaks in the engine compartment once installed, but not gaudy like some colors available...

 
 
 
 
 
The block is actually surprisingly light, once all the weight is taken out of it - even if it is cast iron!
 
 
Then I went all over the remaining surfaces and gave them a nice coating of oil to prevent any rusting - the unprotected surfaces rust very easily once dried off.
 

Here's another shot on the engine stand... the round funny-looking thing, with the hose boss sticking out of it, on the side of the block, is the breather outlet. This should be backflushed at a convenient point like this, or when changing the oil, in order to allow the engine to breathe well (from the crankcase); over 20 years, it gets fairly well clogged up...

 
 
 
Here's the engine a little later. All four pistons and rods are installed, and the freeze plugs and oil filter boss are installed.
 
 
 
 
Here's the engine hanging out in front of the car, upside down, with the oil pan sitting on top as it would be installed...
 
 
 
Here's the block with the crank installed now... the oil pump pickup is the UFO-shaped thing sticking up from the side of the block. The right end of the block is the flywheel end.
 
 

Things really coming together now... oil pan's bolted on, and the water pump and oil pump (at front of block behind crank pulley). Oil pan, in spite of being cast aluminum, is painted black to enhance it's radiative properties and maximize cooling; it has fins cast into it's bottom (which are a bitch to clean!) from the factory to help cooling as well.

 
 
 
Flywheel and new Sachs Clutch installed...
 
 
Alternator and mounts installed, ready for installation...
 
 
 
...and it's installed!!!
 
 
View from the other side...
 
 
 
With the head installed...
 
 
 
The new racecar sees the light of day, nearly ready to get started...
 
 
 
Evening now, and the engine runs...
 
 
Success is a wonderful thing... Byron's 951 Cab in the background...